Food and drink


Ask the wine expert: What’s so special about Sauvignon Blanc?

 

It’s one of the most fashionable grape varieties and it has also managed to maintain its edge and attraction to wine lovers. Jarrold wine expert and Master of Wine Nick Adams explores the appeal of Sauvignon Blanc.

Sauvignon Blanc parades across the vinous catwalk with an amazing array of exotic smells and flavours with a dry, crisp and immediately appealing style. In fact, this wine has its own day (4th May), so throughout the month of May a selection of Sauvignon wines will be featured in the Jarrold Deli and Wine Shop.

So why is Sauvignon Blanc so popular?

It starts paradoxically with reference to both the Old World (Europe) and New World of wines – probably in equal measure. The “spiritual home” of Sauvignon Blanc is found in the eastern section (or Central Vineyards) of the Loire Valley. Here, on well drained, chalky soils Sauvignon excels, as exemplified by the renowned districts of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé, where dry, crisp and mineral Sauvignon wines made such an impression on the wine lover that their fame spread around the world. Fast forward to the 1980s and a relatively newly planted region in the northern end of the South Island of New Zealand – called Marlborough. Here the dry, perfumed and exotic Sauvignons again created so much attention that another, new, world standard expression of Sauvignon was formed.

So much so that the highly respected wine writer Oz Clarke wrote at the time (in 1991, in his ground-breaking book “New Classic Wines”); “A quintessential style of Sauvignon Blanc is now made in New Zealand, not France, and is a rare example of an old classic being stripped of its crown by a new”. The soil and climatic conditions are near perfect in Marlborough – nearly always sunny and dry, but never too hot. No wonder the Maoris called the region “Kei puta te Wairau” – the “place with the hole in the clouds”.

Today these two great expressions of Sauvignon are as respected and enjoyed as ever before, but maybe the two styles have moved a little closer towards each other – with top Loire examples being slightly riper and more exotic, whilst top Marlboroughs have become more restrained and mineral.

And quite simply, you cannot ignore the sheer exuberance, aromas and fruitiness of Sauvignon – it shouts from the glass and dances on your palate. The header picture symbolises just a few of the many varied smells and flavours which make this grape and wine so appealing. And – with a few noble examples – it doesn’t require oak, or over manipulation by the winemaker to create a “manufactured” style.

Like a lot of good things in life it has attracted many imitators, and today is a firm favourite grape in many countries. Other star areas which have emerged and challenge the status quo include South Africa – especially in regions such as Walker Bay and Elgin; also, Chile – especially in areas such as Casablanca and Leyda Valleys. And – it may surprise you - Sauvignon has long been the primary grape in the top quality dry white wines from Bordeaux, as exemplified in the revered area of Pessac-Léognan. These wines also, successfully, balk the tradition by being mainly barrel fermented. And… it is likely that Sauvignon may have originated from the Bordeaux region, not the Loire! And (this may also surprise you) it is the “mother” of Cabernet Sauvignon, when crossed many years ago with the black variety Cabernet Franc.

With leaves like dinner plates, this variety is highly vigorous and relatively easy to grow. Its kaleidoscope of aromas and flavours include – in cooler climates – grassy, asparagus, bell pepper and citric fruits – often led by pink grapefruit – and sometimes gooseberry. In warmer areas notes evolve to include elderflower, kiwi, and passion fruits. However, Sauvignon does not work well in hot growing areas where it loses its vitality and precise fruit flavours and aroma.

The vast majority of Sauvignons are best consumed young whilst still vibrant and fruity. If aged it tends to become more vegetal with notes of tinned peas, which not everyone finds so attractive. The one style which can be aged successfully, however, are the top quality barrel fermented white Bordeaux.

While a lot of Sauvignon is drunk on its own as an aperitif it does work well with a wide range of foods, including light meats, charcuterie, and vegetable dishes (not least new season English asparagus); also fish and especially sushi. A real surprise is how well the wine also works with young, fresh goat’s cheese! These wines, not unsurprisingly, work very well with lighter spring and summer dishes and – at last – are refreshing on warmer days.

Sauvignon Blanc is a wine for our times and well-balanced examples offer enormous pleasure.

To celebrate Sauvignon Blanc Day and the focus with this variety through the month of May Nick has highlighted several pertinent examples off the Jarrold list.

The crowd pleasers

Sauvignon Blanc Silver Myn Zorgvilet Banghoek South Africa

£8.70

Nick says: "This is dry, nicely herbaceous and leafy, with slightly more tropical fruits than the Lawson’s."

 

Sauvignon Blanc Santa Digna Torres Central Valley Chile

£9.20

Nick says: "A fine, balanced take with gooseberry green fruit notes and some touches of asparagus."

 

Lawson’s Dry Hills Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand

£13
Chris says: "This  is a benchmark! A classic Kiwi take – dry with plenty of pink grapefruit and delicate passion fruit notes. This is restrained but without any loss of zestiness or vitality. More-ish."

Treat yourself

Sancerre Domaine de Pré Semelé Loire Valley France

£20.10
Chris says: "A classic, bone dry and flinty style with lifted citrus fruits and a delicate mineral note."

Lune d’Argent Bordeaux Blanc Domaine du Chevalier Bordeaux France

£20.30
Chris says: "A weightier, more textural example with vanilla oak nuances and underlay of citric fruit. (Here the Sauvignon Blanc is complimented with a proportion of the Sémillon grape in the blend, which is a classic recipe in Bordeaux for their dry whites)."

All the wines featured are available from The Deli and Wine Shop, Lower Ground Floor

 

 

 

 

Ask the Jarrold wine expert and Master of Wine Nick Adams

Nick Adams is one of only 369 Master of Wine in the world and has over 30 years experience in the world of wine. He has visited many of the world's famous wine regions and has worked with some of the most renowned names and producers. Nick aims to give you a greater level of service and information on wines in our Deli and Wine Bar. 

Pictures are for illustration only.

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